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Installation Manual


This do-it-yourself project will be fun and easy, best of all, the results are amazing!

Package Contents:

(For 9" - 36" Single Cylinder Systems)

     Hydraulic cylinders
trim planes
hydraulic power unit
25' control cable
4 1/2" X 3 1/2" digital display touch pad
hydraulic tubing - 1 roll
stainless steel clevis pins
stainless steel cotter pins
tubing coupling sets  (nut/sleeve/tube support)
nylon hose clamps (top)
nylon hose clamps (bottom)
#8 x 1" bottom cylinder bracket screws
#6 x 3/4" display touch pad mounting screws
#10 x 1" power unit mounting screws
#14 x 1 1/2" transom mounting bracket screws
#10 x 1 3/4" trim plane mounting screws

 (n = the number of holes in the trim planes)

In addition to some basic hand tools, you will require the following items in order to complete installation:

1 qt. 
1 tube

1 set


1 pc. 

1 pc.

transmission fluid (Dextron ATF) or equal
quality marine adhesive/sealant
electric drill
drill bits (7/64", 5/32", 3/16", 1 1/4")
small jewelers type screwdriver
3 foot straight edge
fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse or a 20 amp breaker
red 14 gauge power supply hook up wire
black gauge power supply hook up wire
Wire ends and splice connectors

INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

PROCEDURE 1:

1. Please read the procedural instructions carefully before attempting to install or operate the system.
(We recommend you keep the manual with the system after installation because it contains important operational and calibration information that you may need at a later time.)

2.  Check the contents of the box. (refer to parts list located in the beginning of the is document.) In the unlikely event that a part is missing or damaged, telephone 606-325-1451.

3.  Make sure that the bilge is completely ventilated.

PROCEDURE 2:       PLACEMENT OF THE TRIM TABS
1.  Install each trim tabs as far from the center of the boat as possible.  Allow a minimum clearance of 2" from I/O or outboard steering angle. (Fig. 2)

2.  Position the trim tabs along the outside bottom of the transom (Fig 3) at the same distance from the center line (or from the sides of the boat).

3.  Locate each trim tab 1/8" to 1/4" above the bottom of the boat to prevent drag (fig. 4).

4.  Hold the trim tab in the desired mounting location and drill the two 5/32" end holes 1" deep into the transom.  (Allow for the thickness of the trim tab.)  Temporarily install two screws.  (if your are using a power screwdriver, do not over tighten as you can damage the trim tab. Do final tightening by hand.)  Now, drill the remaining holes and remove the trim tab.

5.  Fill each mounting hole with quality marine adhesive/sealant.  Run a bead of the adhesive/sealant along the back of the mounting bracket.  This material can be purchased at most marine stores.  Failure to seal with this material can cause leaks and damage to the wood core of the transom. Clean excess with mineral spirits.

6.  With the holes filled, position trim tabs in place and insert screws into the two end holes to hold the tab in place. Next, insert the rest of the screws and tighten uniformly.

CAUTION!! If a power driver is used, exercise caution not to over tighten, or damage to the bracket may result.  Repeat Steps 1-6 for the other trim tab.

PROCEDURE 3: HYDRAULIC CYLINDER AND TRANSOM FITTING


 
1.  Attach the port trim tab cylinder with boot, see procedure #10, to the trim tab with the hydraulic brass fitting on top.  (disregard the color of wire on the cylinder.)  Temporarily fasten the transom bracket to the end of the piston rod with the stainless steel 1/4" clevis pin below the side mounting screw holes.  Be sure to install the transom brackets with three mounting holes above the clevis pin.  The hydraulic hose will come through the transom above the clevis pin.  (see Figures 5 and 6)
2.  Place a straight edge or yard stick along the bottom of the hull and under the center of the tab (figure 4).  This will show the location of the extended plane of the hull.  Set the trim tab 1/2" above this extended plane.

3.  With the tab in position swing the cylinder with the mounting bracket attached up so that the mounting bracket touches the transom.  Be sure the side and top mounting holes are above the clevis pin.  (Refer back to figure 4.)  Drill the two side holes with 3/16" drill bit.  Temporally install screws to hold the bracket in place.  Detach the piston rod by pulling the clevis pin and drill the top and bottom holes.  Drill a 3/8" hole against the upper edge of the cylinder hole in the transom bracket for the hydraulic hose and cylinder sensor wire.  (see figure 5 and 6; see template).
 
 

CAUTION!!!

BEFORE DRILLING THROUGH THE TRANSOM, MAKE SURE THAT THE BILGE PUMP IS COMPLETELY VENTILATED AND FREE FROM GASOLINE FUMES.  DRILLING INTO THE HULL CONTAMINATED WITH GASOLINE FUMES CAN CAUSE A VIOLENT EXPLOSION!  ALSO, BE SURE THAT SUFFICIENT CLEARANCE EXISTS BETWEEN THE INSIDE OF THE TRANSOM AND BOAT ACCESSORIES,  ENGINE, FUEL TANKS, WIRING, OR OTHER OBJECTS.

5.  Detach the transom bracket and apply a marine adhesive/sealant to the four (4) screw holes in the transom and to the back of the transom bracket.  Start the four (4) screws and tighten uniformly until the bracket is mounted solidly to the transom.  With soapy water on your finger, smooth out the sealant around the transom bracket.  Reattach the hydraulic cylinder piston rod to the transom bracket with the clevis on.  DO NOT install the retaining cotter pin at this time.  Install the starboard cylinder in the same manner.
 

PROCEDURE 4:      

HYDRAULIC  POWER UNIT

The hydraulic power unit must be mounted in an area above the level of the battery where it will not be in or near bilge or wash down water.  Remember that you will have to be able to reach inside the plastic box and access the reservoir fill hole.  The inside of the transom is a good place; however, be sure not to drill through the transom.
  
Click pictures to enlarge

1.  Hold the power unit HORIZONTALLY in the desired location.  Using the power unit bracket as a template, mark the three installation holes and the drill 5/32" holes 1" deep. (figure 7)

2.  Before securing the power unit, fill the reservoir with automatic transmission fluid.

3.  Remove the hydraulic power unit circuit board cover.  Insert the digital display touch pad cable end plug into the power unit circuit board.  Waterproof the connection with WD 40 or equal.

PROCEDURE 5:     HYDRAULIC LINES AND SENSOR WIRES

1. Remove the clevis pin from the transom bracket and move the cylinders away from the transom bracket.  Route the sensor wires from each cylinder through the hole in the transom to the power unit.

2.  Route a length of hydraulic line from the left control valve (see Figure 7 to the left trim tab.  Cut the hydraulic line square to length with a sharp knife or razor blade.

3.  Slip the NUT and  SLEEVE over the hydraulic line and push the TUBE SUPPORT fully onto the end of the line (refer back to figure 6).  Push the end of the hydraulic line onto the cylinder fitting and hold firmly in place.  Slide the sleeve and the nut down the line and hand tighten the nut onto the fitting.  Tighten the nut just until it is snug.  Repeat this process with the hydraulic line from the right control valve.
 

NOTE:  The holes through the transom will be sealed during procedure 9.  It is extremely important to completely seal the hole in the transom on both the left and right tabs.  If these holes are not completely sealed, leakage may occur.  Use a quality marine adhesive/sealant.  Check for leaks after placing the boat in the water.


4.  Route the sensor wires to the hydraulic power unit. Secure the sensor wires to the corresponding hydraulic hose. Temporarily connect the wires from the power supply as indicated in Figure 8. (If you connect to the wrong cylinder, you will immediately know it when you start the calibration procedure and can correct them at that time.)

SAFETY NOTE

Make sure the hydraulic lines and wires are routed away from all sharp edges and are tied and supported.  CONSULT YOUR MARINE DEALER OR A TRAINED MECHANIC IF YOU AE NOT SURE OF THIS PROCEDURE.

PROCEDURE  6:   DIGITAL DISPLAY TOUCH PAD

1.  Route the digital display touch pad cable from the hydraulic power unit to the boat's control console.  A 1" clearance hole is required for the connector body when routing through bulkheads.  The touch pad should be mounted close to the steering wheel within easy reach and within the first line of sight of the operator.  Tape on the touch pad template and drill four (4) 7/64" diameter holes and one (1) 1 1/4" clearance hole.

2.  Plug the cable into the back of the touch pad.  Secure the cable in place so that it will not accidentally pull the plug out.  Coat the connection with WD 40 or equal to protect against moisture.
 

3.  Screw the panel into position and attach the red wire lead to the fused 12 volt positive terminal of the ignition, or accessory switch that is "on" during normal use.  Attach the orange lead to the 12 volt connection of the navigation light switch.  This will provide illumination of the display panel whenever the navigation lights are on (Figure 9).


PROCEDURE 7:         WIRING TO POWER SUPPLY


1.  Using a red 14 gauge wire, connect the red 12 volt lead from the hydraulic power unit to or close to the positive 12 volt battery terminal using a 20 amp fuse or breaker to provide the circuit.  Connect the black ground wire to or close to the negative battery terminal. (Figure 10)

2.  Make sure the hydraulic connections have been tightened on both the control valves and the cylinders.

PROCEDURE 8:     TOUCH PAD DISPLAY AND CALIBRATION PROCEDURE

1.  Run the trim tabs all the way down and then all the way up one at a time by pushing the DOWN and UP buttons on the digital display touch pad.  Check for fluid leaks at each cylinder's brass fitting at this time.  You should hear the pump load up when the trim tab is all the way down.

2.  With both trim tabs all the way up, add automatic transmission fluid to within 1/2" of the fill hole. (some of the fluid will stay in the cylinder).

NOTE:  DO NOT ADD THE FLUID WHILE THE TRIM TABS ARE IN THE DOWN POSITION BECAUSE THE FLUID WILL OVER FLOW INTO THE BOAT WHEN THEY ARE UP.

3.  Locate the four (4) adjustments on the electronic circuit board at the hydraulic power unit. (refer back to Figures 7 and 8)

NOTE:  The adjustment screws are numbered 
Each screw turns to the left (counter clockwise) to about 7:30 and to the right (clockwise to about 4:30.  Be gentle with the adjustments and turn the other way if you are not sure about the stops.  Screws 4 and 3 adjust the right side while screws 2 and 1 adjust the left side (see Figure 8).

(1)     Start with the trim tabs in the UP position.
(2)     Turn screws 1 and 3 to the midway point which is about 12:00.
(3)     Turn screws 2 and 4 to 7:30 and then turn to the right just past 01:01 to 00:00 (do not keep turning when you first get 00:00.
(4)     Run the trim tabs to the DOWN position.
(5)     Turn screws 1 and 3 to 20:20.
(6)     If necessary, fine tune the 00:00 UP position with screws 2 and 4 and the 20:20 DOWN position with screws 1 and 3.
WITH THE SYSTEM IN WORKING ORDER, PERMANENTLY CONNECT THE CYLINDER SENSOR WIRES AT THE POWER UNIT.

If you have a problem calibrating the system, proceed as follows:

(1)      Disconnect the sensor wires where you connected them at the power supply.
(2)      Turn all four screws to 7:30 and the display should read 39.39.
(3)      Short out like colors of sensor wired.  The 39s should turn to 00s.
(4)      Check the cylinders with an ohm meter at the hydraulic power unit where the wires were disconnected.  The resistance of each cylinder should be less that 1000 ohms in the up position and less that 5000 ohms in the down position.

PROCEDURE 9:  SEAL THE HOLES WHERE THE HYDRAULIC LINES AND SENSOR WIRES ARE ROUTED THROUGH THE TRANSOM.

1.  With the trim tabs in the DOWN position, pull the clevis pin from the mounting bracket and pull the hydraulic hose out one inch.

2.  Fill the center hole in the transom bracket hole that the hydraulic lines comes through with 3M 5200 or equal.  Continue filling as you move the piston rod back the 1" and install the 1/4 "clevis pin.  (the adhesive/sealant will follow the hose in the transom fitting.)  Secure the clevis pin with the cotter pin.  Pack additional sealer around the hydraulic line and behind the clevis pin.

PROCEDURE 10:        BOOT INSTALLATION

1.  Nylon hose clamps are used at the top and the bottom of the boot.  Tighten the clamps with a pair channel lock (wide mouth) pliers.  Remove the clamps by inserting a screwdriver and prying in a manner to cause the teeth to slide sideways in opposite directions.

2.  Apply quality marine grease around the transom fitting and then hook the boot over the transom fitting.  (grease is used to seal the fine pores in the transom fitting and yet allow easy removal of the boot when required).

3.  Hold the boot against the transom and install a nylon hose clamp around the transom fitting making sure it grabs the boot.  NOTE:  If the nylon clamp will not work, you probably have an older style transom fitting.  In this case, cut or grind the nylon clamp down 10 1/4 :, or substitute a 3/16" nylon tie strap.

4.  Slide the boot up about 3" above the drain hole in the underside of the cylinder and rub grease on just below the boot.  Then, slide the boot down to 2" above the hole and install the nylon clamp 1/2 " up on the boot.  If there is no flat flange over which to install the clamp, make a flat surface by stretching electrical tape over the first high ridge and then install the clamp over the tape.

NOTE:  The 5/16 bolt that is in the cylinder drain hole should be removed periodically while the tabs are in the DOWN position to see if the boot was sealed properly.  Drain water if present and re-seal the boot.
 

NOTE:  If the boot is sealed properly, it may dimple a little in the down position and balloon a little in hot weather.  This is normal and is not a matter of concern.

OPERATION HINTS

Here are some basic operational instructions for the Trim Tabs System.  As you become proficient with the trim adjustments you will appreciate the advantages of the tab position indication system even more.

UNDERSTANDING THE DIGITAL DISPLAY PAD READOUT

Actual size is 4 1/2" x 3 1/2"
The touch pad displays a  readout of the trim position in degrees from zero (0) to twenty (20) for the port and starboard tabs simultaneously.  When both tabs are in the full Up position, the display will read 00:00.  This shows that the port tab is in the (00) position and the starboard tab is in the (00) position.  If you move the port tab all the way down the digital display will read 20:00.  This indicates that the port tab is in the (20) position and the starboard tab is in the (00) position.  With both tabs all the way down the display will read (20:20).  You can set each tab to any number from (00) to (20) by pushing the UP or DN (down) buttons.  Pushing the UP button reduces the number readout; pushing the DN button increases the number readout.  The higher the number, the greater the trim action.
HOW TO USE THE TRIM TABS

1.  At the dock make sure that the display reads (00:00).  This will prevent damage to the tabs around shallow water or cradles.

2.  Once clear of obstacles, and prior to adding power, adjust the tabs and note the performance of the hull.  If the hull moves out of the water easily to planing speed, (10:10) is the correct initial setting.  If the hull does not plane easily, add more trim to (15:15) and note the results.  If the hull immediately rides bow down, reduce trim to (05:05) and note the results.  The idea is to make adjustments that result in the hull reaching a planing condition smoothly, quickly, and without bow high transom low condition.

3.  Once the hull is on plane, reduce the trim to a setting that will allow the hull to stay on plane at the desired power setting.

4.  If the boat does not ride level on the roll axis, add trim to the low side until the ride is level.  You an also reduce trim on the high side if adequate trim remains to pull the hull on plane.

5.  Adding trim in rough seas can reduce pounding.

6.  Cavitation can be reduce with trim.

7.  In quartering seas and/or quartering wind add trim and maintain a level attitude in the same manner as #4.
 

You will find many uses for your trim tabs.  Sea, wind and loading conditions are infinitely variable.  You can master these conditions with your trim tabs and a basic understanding of how to use them.

TRIM TABS IMPROVE YOUR BOATS PERFORMANCE

          Trim tabs are, in effect, movable extensions of the planing hull.  With the "extended" hull, you can attain greater speed and stability in virtually all running conditions.  The trim tabs can increase boat speed by allowing the hull to plane at lower power settings.  They can also decrease boat speed (for trolling, docking, and following seas) as well as improve steering at slow speeds by reducing wandering of the boat.  The ability to move each trim tab by remote control adds a new dimension to boat performance.  Furthermore, with the digital touch pad display, you know each of the positions of each tab.
           Trim tabs can also help you save fuel!  You should be able to reduce the power required to maintain a fixed hull speed.  You may even be able to switch to a higher pitch prop.
           This all means that your boat will perform more smoothly at increased speed with a reduced fuel consumption and greater comfort and control.  Instead of raising up to look out over the bow or moving people up front and from side to side to balance the boat,  simple move your trim tabs up or down.  It adds a whole new dimension to the pleasure and safety of boating.

After installing your system if you have trouble trying to figure out how to use it you may contact us.